@ Matty, if your initial post was relatively friendly and good natured Im sure you would have gotten a similar reply. Take a ruler and measure between the base of the paper to the marked line. The fit/finish/materials of my $600 Alden boots is markedly different from my $350 Allen Edmonds Dalton boots. Also Barkers at the 1880 price point are made in the UK. Just got re-measured last week after losing some weight (again), Im standing in between 10.5 C/D. Tanks, if you will. The big differentiating factor is not business model, but location of manufacture. At Styleforum, youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. After trying on shoes in Trading Post, the fit is so much better than any western brands Ive ever tried. Brilliant. With Carmina you can get a more refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more bevelled waist and so on. For example, I got two new boots from the UK this week: a shell Carmina balmoral at just over $500 USD and C&J Galway 2 at just under $390 USD. Theres so many men who more or less only buy bespoke tailoring, and who can spend enormous amount of money on watches etc. I wrote an article about it many years ago on the Swedish version of Shoegazing (before English was launched) which, to summarise, had the conclusion that its down to vanity. You basically double your costs from stock carry. MP/Barrie 9.5E: Excellent fit right out of the box with thick or thin socks. Start-up brands are often good on marketing, on styling and photography. Total:1,176 (members:154, guests:1,022), Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o. Im a long term Crockett and Jones customer I buy main line and handgrade (I prefer the handgrade for the softness of the leather and the whole leather inner, which feels lovely). Comfy fit. Premium Leather Uppers stitched down well with Goodyear Welting strategies make the Carmina shoes to be one of the most well-finished shoes that we have had the privilege of wearing. I have four pairs from them that cover all my needs and they are definitely as good as John Lobb who charge you over twice the price. *Although I trust Jespers impartiality, it needs to be stated that he now works for Skolyx, which has its own shoe brand and sells other shoes. I am asking because this difference has never really been clear to me. Morjas, and the other Swedish brands Myrqvist and Skolyx, all use leather board heel stiffeners. Carlos Santos are another example of value shoes of great quality to price ratio. me, Morjas and Skolyx have been better in that regard. No one wants their sole to wear down quickly, but points like the shaped waist are more aesthetic, and its up to you whether you care about them. F. E. F. Extra-wide. Cheers Adam, and very pleased thats the case. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. Onderhound New Buteo 41.5: Volume is a little high, but the width and arch length are bang on. I could wear these with my really thick winter socks if I wanted to. Although, suede uppers would take a long time to wear out. Viberg 2005EE 9: (there is a D version available from MTO only) I have these in an old 2013 Sample service boot and the engineer which is what its normally found on. Additional notes about feet:I was measured as 10.5D by an Allen Edmonds store associate several years ago. No worries at all, its much appreciated. Is higher volume though. The nicest pair of shoes I own is a pair of JM Weston oxfords (from their main line, not the Blake line), and I have to work to tell the difference between the two (Weston has shaped heels, for example). Every now and then I got excited by a nice design at a lower price point only to be disappointed by quality issues. Do you like the mor traditional English or contemporary French style more? Rock Your Socks- show your sock, shoe & pant combos, *DROP 3/1* NWT $240 Ralph Lauren Purple Label Italian Made Navy Linen & Mulberry Silk Twill Neck Tie, * DROP 3/1 * NWT $225 Ralph Lauren Purple Label Italian Made Square Knit Solid Black Silk Neck Tie, R.M.Williams Comfort Craftsman Tobacco Suede UK 8.5 H. OGIO Golf Travel Bags The Royal Experience! You must log in or register to reply here. There arent many industries where youre so often buying direct from the maker, and having little additional costs along the way. Stitchdown boots you will get more lateral give across the width of the boot, and with welted products you'll get more . (Portuguese shoemaker) Seems to be a popular thing to write now. My Yanko boots I enjoy in the winter months here in New Zealand (about now). One thing I could never understand is why, from lower to higher price points, RTW makers dont provide more width options. Job done. Tried an 8.5E on a 2014 manufactured pair and its better than the modern ones, but the taper is a bit more aggressive so I'd prefer a 9 in much older or "OG" 2030. I think I could tell the difference between a standard C&J and EG from a distance, though I wouldnt like to put that to the test! For me, thats the right balance: There are diminishing returns to the higher quality make you can get with more expensive manufacturers, and a lot of my enjoyment comes from having shoes that are fit for particular purposes e.g., sleeker oxfords to wear with suits and smarter trousers, chunkier brogue and split-toes for more casual outfits, rubber soles for wet weather, unlined loafers for the summer, etc. TLB (above) is a good example of how much more dynamic the Spanish shoe market is than the English. Off sale they come in at about 380 per pair (sale price 225) and they have a great re-furb service where for 80, theyll send them back to you as good as new. Check the Noble Shoe eshop for several decent ones. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. I have to disagree. They also have choices of colours for those who want to make their outfit pop, with bright and lively colours including red, green, and bright blue. The equivalent shoes are both online currently for 400 each. Very comfortable, heel is a smidge roomy, but overall an extremely comfortable last. While, as you mention, most people dont see the difference between a 400 Goodyear welted shoe and a 4,000 bespoke shoe. I think the short answer is that yes, it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. This is very useful, thank you. Actually Im surprised Crownhill wasnt mentioned here, I thought they were quite popular. The Jermyn Street stores are run by a franchisee. Because of the great leather material of the Carminas, youll get yourself a pair of shoes that are bound to stand you out in the positive way.CARMINA LEATHER, Meermins, on the other hand, are made with premium leather materials ranging from hybrid calfskin leather materials to even Shell Cordovan leather.MEERMIN LEATHER. Customers love the shape of the Almond Toe-Boxes of Meermin shoes Many believe that that design adds well to the elegance of the shoes. These would be an excellent fit if the toe box was a bit wider. Please check Rafal's thread and patronize a true custom maker. Is it enough to justify the extra 75 quid per pair? Arch support is nowhere near the 55 last but feels much more substantial than any other maker listed. Fugashin is similar: the two are competitors in Vietnam. The point about corrected Vs full grain leathers is not a meaningful distinction. Im happy to pay a bit more for that consistency and service. I got tired of my usual worn brands price development and wanted to see if it is possible to find decent shoes under 300 Euros, which in my eyes is in no way cheap. I have Meermin boots and happy with the quality. I loved the MTO experience there. Customers get a lot of value from buying Carmina shoes because these fashionable shoes are really sturdy, durable, and long-lasting in the long run. 4. They had also banned any online store to ship them out to Canada. In addition they come in some very handsome styles. Low arches but not flat. Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today! Regarding AE, theres certainly been a change since their most recent acquisition in 2017. Still would have preferred 9.5E if it were offered. I have been wearing several pairs for ~18 years without an issue besides replacement of a couple of degraded rubber heel soles. I have a pair of Chelsea boots by Sanders, bought at John Rushtons. Even more troubling is that I found no review by an established website stating so. Especially compared to other Spanish or Italian shoes, which are also a bit softer than the English., North America: Spier & MacKay, Allen Edmonds, Cobbler Union, John Doe. Main point, though, is that C&J, EG etc are different enough in quality to justify their price point in USD. Viberg 1035 8.5: Its a great looking last, heel is massive. Ive never understood why they tried to branch out so much. RON 9: Terrible fit. I also had disappointing experiences with Myrqvists quality. Brilliant article I really enjoyed that . Second is a Loake 1880 snuff suede apron derby boot. Cobbler Union (above) is a newer brand, and more similar to TLB or Carmina, while Spier & MacKay is a clothing brand with a line of shoes at 220 which is decent for the price. I guess you get what you pay for but this level of quality for the leather should be mentioned. So in order to create a frame of reference, I phoned Jesper Ingevaldsson, who writes the website Shoegazing.com and now works in the industry, for Swedish shop/brand Skolyx. Not only the uppers are nicer, but the full calf liners are a joy when you put them on and you walk even a bit. I think Carmina sizing, at first, looks simple but if you read into it, there are lots of strange variations. Japan is the biggest market in Asia for dress shoe brands, but a lot of the cheaper shoes (below 200) are made elsewhere in Asia and just finished at home (similar to Italy). Still fine for the price point, as this piece suggests, but the quality control is miserable. I absolutely could not go a half-size down. Thanks Robin. Do you know what thats down to? Of course choice is more limited, and its more pot luck, but who doesnt love a bargain? Sounds like a nice choice of shoes. Theyre not as refined as the other Asian brands, but stand out for making Goodyear in the old-school way, stitching directly to the insole. So, rather than the gemming method that most modern Goodyear shoes have, where a canvas ribbing is used instead. Looking forward to this. Unless there is also a considerable increase in quality, Id say this reposition leaves Church as even less of a value for money option. Carmina shoes are really great shoes that help you to take your style to a whole new level. I would instead recommend taking this last TTS and just wearing thick socks as sometimes it can run small. Does anyone know if English makers tend to have wider heels than their Spanish (or other continental counterparts). Most of my shoes are Crockett & Jones because of the great customer service and the consistent quality. Using these focus points, lets get into the comparison of these two shoe brands: Also, the materials of the Meermin shoes are flexible and stretchable enough to accommodate most feet. The stitching on the soles is also less dense, though the soles do have some nice detailing like shaped waists and channeled soles, as you mentioned. Finally, in terms of comfort, the insoles are much thicker and more comfortable in terms of conforming to the shape of my foot than any other shoes on this list (including Weston) other than Andres Sendra. Lovely article! Either as a good value buy for one who is unwilling or unable spend more, or, as a gateway purchase into the world of fine mens shoes. The shoes might look good on the feet, but if you pick them up and look closer, youll notice little errors. both pairs have a dainite (or dainite-type, in Meermin's case) sole the Meermins have blind eyelets, whereas the Carminas have a brass eyelet that look to match the speedhook finish the heel on the Carminas is quite a bit longer than Meermin's However about 5 years ago they reached some export deals with local retailers here in Canada and is sold here for over 500, where I used to get them shipped from England for 2-300. I can only speak for Cheaney, but the staff were very helpful and there was a good range when I visited around 7 months ago. I returned this pair. Their last is made for the Japanese feet, which are flatter in general with a smaller heel. Id highly recommend it for more detail all of these brands, particularly on the technical side. Thus, not likely to be much different from your C&J in terms of make, but the last and the leather may differ. Loake is not anywhere near. Viberg 2030E 8.5: Good to great fit, but depends on the year and the run. This is particularly true in the shoe market, given there are few designer brands spending big budgets on marketing and advertising. It would be nice to see more posts on the different plateaus (?) Bored of counting likes on social networks? I brought a pair of black Oxford brogues in a classic last for 109 that were from the previous season and a pair of Dark Leaf Calf Oxfords for 150 that had a negligible fault (even the staff had to look it up as it wasnt obvious). To take an example, say youre in the market for an adelaide. Compared to the HOK 9 and 2030 9.5 this started with the loosest heel, which lead to a bit of slop, but broke in with some wear. Hugs my foot like a glove on all sides, including the arch, but I wouldn't mind if the heel was a bit more snug. TLB is from Mallorca, like Carmina, but is only a few years old and is trying to gain a similar reputation. Thanks for your efforts! Guess it goes to show how individual it all is. Heel is kind of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last. Please dont take offence, I am just dead curious about it. I dont think theyre very different, but no I cant compare directly, as I dont own GC RTW. I've come to think of myself as a 10E. Im a regular customer of both Jermyn Street shops and the customer service Ive consistently experienced over many years has been exceptionally good, significantly better than Ive experienced in some other, more expensive establishments that will be well known to readers of this blog. AE is a company around 100 years old and about thrice Aldens turnover, I always heard that only second to it in quality in the US, so that seemed odd. Loake, Barker, Cheaney, etc. Could not find info. Its a last designed to accommodate a range of foot shapes and I was able to comfortably wear them from day 1 with my preferred boot socks. Thats a point worth emphasising. Im thinking of trying something different and the George Cleverley Ready to Wear line has a whole cut I particularly like the look of. The toe length isn't excessive either. In the past, I would spend under $300 on an item without really thinking twice about it but once I started keeping track, I began to notice that all these expenditures (which were often impulse buys or prompted by sales) were adding up to several thousand dollars a year. It was snug, but not tight, and I could tell that they would fit perfectly once the sole settles. But their attempt to branch out has caused them to lose their focus. The best made, best value quality shoe on the market is Joseph Cheaney by a country mile. Alden Aberdeen: 9.5E fits me really well with medium socks. Though, unsure of sizing, thanks. As someone who generally purchases shoes in this price point and has experiences with Carmina, Loake, Allen Edmonds, Berwick and Meermin.. p.s. This is interesting my experience is the complete opposite. Red Wing 23 9D: decent fit. But its worth being sceptical about claims on quality. Carmina shoes are made with premium materials that are much superior to materials used for making Meermin shoes. Truman P-79 9D: Nice fit. As been mentioned by Simon, dont see it as a complete list of brands, its just a selection of ones to highlight, theres plenty of good brands not mentioned (and plenty of less good ones as well). In India there is Bridlen (below), which makes a very solid, classic-looking shoe. You are using an out of date browser. These classy are built for the ultimate style, comfort, functionality, and elegance of the elite. Extraordinary. Customers complain that the Meermin shoes are often poorly finished. There are many levels at tanneries, and cheaper brands dont get the same quality or the first selection. NWT Pual Smith Linen, Cotton & Silk Blend Neck Tie in Navy w/ White Polka Dots from MR Porter, New w/ Tag $200+ Brioni Italian Made Woven Silk Purple Paisley Neck Tie from Bergdorf Goodman, Vintage Dunhill English Made Black Leather Long Wallet. Very comfortable throughout the midfoot. Note: I have pretty weird feet, slim waist, slim heels, slightly high instep, and low volume. This is certainly true, and prices mentioned in this article are towards each brands respective domestic markets.. Whats interesting is that for US customers it can go both ways depending on guidelines/restrictions from the brands. Thanks for the personal comment it is very helpful and interesting, Any thoughts about the German brand Hammerstein? ), but perhaps that wouldnt be entirely appropriate. Its a helpful round up, especially since I find this price bracket to be a sweet spot for my own purposes. Ship them out to Canada or other continental counterparts ) high instep, its! 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