READ HERE FOR BEAUTY STANDARDS ALL OVER THE WORLD! Chant Griffin, a journalist and natural hair advocate, says she noticed people were treating her differently after she cut her hair. Women are expected to be skinny, but not too skinny, with large breasts and a big butt, all while maintaining a flat stomach. Media and Pressure Social media platforms, such as Instagram and Tiktok, reinforce the standard of beauty for men. Image: InstagramWhile au naturel makeup and clean beauty products are trending, when beauty mavens want to experiment and add some excitement to the lockdown life, Instagram filter makeup and other extravagant hair and makeup looks are popular as it is just adds a bit whimsy to the new normal.Also read:5 Beauty Cues To Take From Dua Lipa, Makeup Artist Simran Gidwani Shares Exclusive Deets About Athiyas Haldi, 6 Foundations For Oily Skin That Will Prevent Shine, 10 Amazing Lip Glosses To Make Those Lips Poppin, 8 Powder Blushes For That Healthy Flush Of Colour That Suit Every Budget, Here's The Exact Lipstick Athiya Shetty Wore On Her Wedding Day, A Celebrity Makeup Artist Shares Tips On How To Choose The Perfect Lipstick, 6 Janhvi Kapoor Beauty Looks For Every Occasion In Your Life, SAG Awards 2022: 10 Best Beauty Looks That We Loved, In order to access website you need to accept our cookie policy. "All of this naturally led to plumper bodies," Molvar writes in her book, "which forged a new beauty aesthetic. Accessibility | Privacy Policy | Non-Discrimination Statement | Consumer Information | Student Complaint Resolution | IBHE Online Complaint System, Continuing Education & Professional Development, NEH Summer Institute for College and University Educators, Disability, Illness & Non-normative Bodies. The Clean Girl Aesthetic Is All Over Social MediaBut It's Not Exactly Harmless, Unpacking the Wellness Industry's Whitewashing Problem, 8 Black Founders Reflect on Their First Year of Business, Body Contouring After Weight Loss: What You Need to Know, Thuso Mbedu Wants to Be Your Next Action Hero, The Reality of Skin Bleaching and the History Behind It. In contrast, men are expected to do the opposite to be unconcerned about their outer beauty. All rights reserved. Albert Corton. From a very young age, women are raised to live up to unrealistic beauty standards put upon them by society. Makeup may help but the true secrets are diet, skincare, and other good habits. Chinese standards are in favor of innocent beauty, while Western standards seek sensuality. Williams founded Maybelline. The body dimensions highlighted in the survey do not align with what the average woman looks like today. "If (consumers) want to practice those rituals from different parts of the world, (they) should take the time to understand where the practice came from, what it means (and) what the intention is behind it. Credit: Sayaka Maruyama/The New Beauty/gestalten. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. These interactions caused her to long for lighter skin so that she could fit in with her family and adhere to the features that were more valued by society, she says. When Kim "broke" the internet in 2014 by recreating a controversial Jean-Paul Goude photo for the cover of Paper magazine (Goude's sig- nature involves augmenting the dimensions of his subjects to more "exotic" proportions), the obsession with her butt became inextricably linked with rising consumer interest in butt lifts. Griffin, who also runs an Instagram page devoted to natural hair humor, admits there have been times when she's considered chasing an Insta-model figure to attract followers, but then she remembers how much she values her spirit and the impact of her work more than her physical appearance a perspective she attributes to years of developing her Christian faith. Ad Choices. Although the beauty standard affects men too, you can see it's most often women who are affected by the constant pressure of fitting into the beauty standard. As a result, expectations are created, based on which we judge whether someone is beautiful or not. These are just a small part of their personalities. It's still largely classicist. American brand Aisle designs and produces modern, reusable and comfortable period products for menstruating people. A growing awareness helped this change that better representation was required, especially in fashion and entertainment. It's time to redefine the definition of beauty and change the way we view ourselves. Treadmill Review surveyed 1000 Americans and asked them to share their "ideal" body types based on the gender they are most attracted to. Hegemonic beauty standards for Black women in the U.S. carry a degree of complexity, as Black women are socialized to endorse both restrictive hegemonic beauty standards and culturally-specific appearance ideals. And there is an argument to be made that they planted the seeds of the now billion-dollar influencer economy, only to reap them with bigger and bigger returns. Even though it isnt always, we like to look nice and make a good impression on others. A Singaporean actress nearly died due to acute liver damage after believing in slimming pills miraculous effects. The swinging 60s mark a dramatic change, as facial hair is back with a vengeance, with a bushy moustache and goatee, while the shaggy hair has been given volume and texture. According to the results, the "ideal" female body is 5'5", about 130 pounds, and has a 26-inch waist. Tatiana Walk-Morris is a Detroit-born, Chicago-based independent journalist primarily covering business, technology, health, and personal finance. During an investigation into a case of adolescent mercury poisoning, it was discovered that many users of a Mexican beauty cream had significantly higher urine mercury concentrations. Above all, we should leave these mostly illogical ideals because it is more important to nurture our inner beauty to build a better society that does not judge individuals based on beauty standards. Black women who remain mired in the misconception that their beauty isn't enough may try body enhancements, alter their makeup, lighten their skin, thin their noses, or wear lots of extensions, she says. Americans have noticed, and most believe that these companies are having a negative impact on body image. They should continue; we should not abandon them. Researchers at the time equated the slimmer bodies of white women with the ideal female figure, she explains. Fieldwork was undertaken between April 26 - 27, 2021. Cleveland Clinic. 10 Powerful Tips to Heal and Prevent Chapped 10 Amazing Benefits Of Probiotics For Skin. They feel that the tiny your head is, the better. They have been able to capitalize off Black bodies, and people will want to emulate that.". ! And rather than embracing the subjectivity of beauty, societies have instead categorized and quantified these elusive qualities into prescriptive beauty "standards.". The hope is that women can find validation within themselves, explains Nixon-Bethea, who says she encourages her clients to use positive affirmations and identify what's beautiful about their features. So, too, is skincare. When you visit the site, Dotdash Meredith and its partners may store or retrieve information on your browser, mostly in the form of cookies. The American standard is obviously based completely on looks, because it's actually been proven that teeth that are a bit yellow are actually stronger and healthier than super white teeth. Before the notion of White people's biological superiority was disproven in the early to mid-20th century, White Americans largely believed in biological differences between racial groups, and therefore, Black people with white ancestry, and more "white-like" features, were considered superior. When Clark was growing up, she says people would question whether she was related to her family because she had darker skin. The Kardashians are so embedded in how we consume culture that "Kim Kardashian" appears as an example search term on Google Trends, suggesting that when a person is greeted with the possibility of infinite knowledge they might first wonder what Kim is up to. Koreans prefer a small head size. "the current Beauty standard right now sets an impossible image into young children's minds about the way they're supposed to look. By the early 1900s, the cosmetics industry emerged and encouraged darker-skinned people to lighten their skin tone skin-bleaching products were commonly advertised and straighten their natural hair. "So much about how beauty is being defined right now has a political undertone to it," she said in a phone interview, noting how both the Black Lives Matter and Stop Asian Hate movements have inspired. Today's society is completely different than what it used to be and how the media portrays men and women are now the normal beauty standards of the 21st century. Beauty standards in America have drastically changed over the years. Most of the celebrities have a very small head under bold, beautiful hair. Please check your entries and try again. Olivia Hancock is an editor at Byrdie and has over three years of experience writing for digital media platforms. We should normalize men boosting their self-confidence by taking care of their faces and skins. Dont we all just want to look and feel like the best versions of ourselves? "But that also does not negate the benefits of (the ritual). According to Hoff (2019), in a recent survey of 1,000 Americans, the "perfect" woman was described as 5'5", 128 pounds, with a 26-inch waist. ", The initiative aligned with the civil rights movement of the, Forecasts of a post-pandemic beauty boom are already underway. The Western European Swiner is a family medicine/general medicine expert, covering a broad spectrum of both medical and mental health issues. A single persons personal choices do not determine these beauty standards. Black women using these platforms see content featuring thin noses, hourglass figures, or athletic builds, and straight hair or looser curls. For these reasons, makeup is an essential part of our daily lives. Some students feel like if they do not feel like they have a full face of makeup on or if theyre overall appearance is not what they feel comfortable with they will not go out of their dorms. I wish I looked like Cindy Crawford, Cindy Crawford, the supermodel, said. of each person. A pioneering force behind changing beauty standards and this influx of interest in cosmetic surgeries in 2022 is the rapid growth of TikTok. This story originally appeared in the March 2021 issue of Allure. But it's perhaps a better argument to view the family as its own megacorporation, tightly engaged in the battle for American eyes and wallets. To dig into the impact of "ideal" body type narrative even deeper, and get an expert understanding (aside from our own personal experiences) of how this affects women's body image and health, we spoke to board-certified anesthesiologist and physician Dr. Azza Halim. These images of beauty that women see every day influence their behavior and push them to find ways to achieve these practically impossible beauty standards. Now watch Kendall Jenner answer fans on Twitter: Follow Allure on Instagram and Twitter, or subscribe to our newsletter for daily beauty stories delivered right to your inbox. As more and more voices speak of inclusivity and body positivity, there is now a sense of unity and acceptance that prevails on choosing to celebrate natural beauty in all shapes, colour, gender and race, which is much needed especially when it comes to mental health and its relation to body image. A Brutally Honest Look Of Beauty Standards Throughout History. It . Harsh stereotypes and the normalization of whitewashing cultures force women of color into a different standard of beauty. With perfectly shaded abs and Facetuned skin dominating our social media feeds, the expectations for our bodies have never been so impossibly high. One client felt that her African American husband was displeased when she cut her hair because she thought he was attracted to her conventional look, she recalls. In other words, it needs to be abolished. How do you look like? Treadmill Reviews. Client-facing industries have been forced to innovate in the past year, with everyone from make-up artists to skin specialists shifting into the online space. Stars such as Lana del Rey still look to the Golden Age for beauty inspiration. She is a former wellness editor for Byrdie and held beauty and wellness editorial positions at ELLE, The/Thirty, and more. Using our research and results, we hope to see how beauty standards affect modern day females and whether or not the understanding of the European beauty standard causes a clash in ideology against the beauty standard of said person's own culture. Copyright 2023 Worldwide Media | The Times of India. Models post pictures of their bodies in bathing suits or on magazine covers and it can be intimidating for many people and make them aspire to look like something that the models do not even look like themselves due to editing. However, there is a downside, which is mainly due to todays social media pressure. It is important to not internalize surveys like this as fact, and remember that our bodies are all made to look different (and that is okay). Carl Newman, Reclining Female Nude. Clothing especially. Learn how tosubscribe here. Since European beauty standards prioritize skin colors and hairstyles that exclude many black women, specifically those with darker skin, black women are particularly vulnerable to these standards impact. The company received responses from individuals across three generationsBaby Boomers, Gen X, and Millennials. And most notably: Will the masses continue to care? The American beauty standards have become hyper-masculin and based on heteronormative beliefs. Western beauty seems to go in the opposite direction. 2. That's not to say that Black women wearing weaves and extensions, as well as makeup, always stems from a desire to appeal to mainstream culture, as hair and makeup often serve as a form of self-expression and creativity. In the pursuit of achieving society's beauty standards, medical experts have specifically seen patients engage in unhealthy dieting practices. But many also believe thatideals around physical appearance are influenced by media and by the fashion industry, and that these standards may be unrealistic for the average person. However, the pressure to measure up to Eurocentric standards can play a role in these decisions. All in all, the current Beauty standard right now sets an impossible image into young children's minds about the way they're supposed to look. These trends are all influenced by history and technological advancements that were about to tell you all about. Image: Gender Spectrum Collection. As beauty standards in the United States are evolving, women strive to look quite different than before. And another reason is, well, that women have more beauty standards than men. In a similar. It is ironic, as in India people look . If the product has been discontinued, as in the case of Giorgio Armani's Face Fabric foundation, it coincidentally rises from the dead after the press has been informed that the Kardashians supposedly have 20 bottles stockpiled. Dr. Azza Halim is a leading, board-certified anesthesiologist and physician with a focusonaesthetic medicine, anti-aging treatments, and regenerative medicine. Clark says she began to process how Eurocentric beauty standards a reference to physical characteristics such as hair type, facial features, and skin tone that are commonly associated with people of European descent and are perceived as "beautiful" truly affected her while earning her undergraduate degree at Southern Methodist University. There is a clear imbalance in how men and women are expected to groom themselves according to beauty standards. Social media has done a lot of good for our society but there are also many drawbacks. Men (56%) are more likely than women (48%) to say the media doespromote an unrealistic body image for men. And a March McKinsey report found that Black leads comprised 14 percent of lead roles on cable TV shows, up from 12.9 percent in 2018. America's image of the ideal woman is very skinny but busty. When they drop a product name in an interview, supply levels vanish. "Starvation diets have proven to be detrimental to ones immune system, endocrine function, hormonal health, and emotional well-being," Dr. Halim says. Just over half (53%)of those 55 and older say the same thing. of what beauty standards are. Clara Bow, Elizabeth Taylor, and Marilyn Monroe were among the most well-known actresses. What I really want is society to stop imposing that over sexualized beauty standard on Latin American women. Over time, the workplace stressors associated with Eurocentric beauty standards can contribute to Black women experiencing depression, anxiety, or problems in their interpersonal relationships, according to Balumbu-Bennett. Arabelle Sicardi reflects on one Southern California family and their outsize influence on this century's beauty standards. Though majorities in all age groups believe the media does promote an unattainable body image for women, those who are older are more likely to believe this. Half (50%) of 35-to 54-year-olds say the same, and about one in five (22%)adults over 55 is similarly familiar with the movement. March 23, 2021 Eating disorders are a mental illness with biological, psychological, and social components. Moreover, the global makeup industry will be worth $640 billion by 2020. What looks lovely to one person may not appeal to another. The website Treadmill Review polled more than 1000 Americans for their "ideal" body type. For Clark, leaning on her friends and going to therapy helps her process the influence that Eurocentric beauty standards have on her mental health and self-esteem, she says. Dr. Halim also notes that surveys focusing on measurements can also encourage individuals to seek out unnecessary medical procedures to emulate the "ideal" body type dimensions. It stems from white supremacy and is fueled by today's toxic society. The company brought in $570 million in profit in only 15 months after its opening. While the astronomical paychecks associated with their collaborations make headlines reportedly, one social media post can net them six figures much less is known about which posts those are. Beauty standards in the 21st century have been filled with negative stereotypes for both men and women. . The racism, transphobia, and fat-shaming can just be seen in the way models get ready. When Keeping Up With the Kardashians premiered in 2007, it was perhaps possible to simply watch the Kardashians, a family ambling through Hollywood-adjacent American life on the E! According to Utusan Malaysia, more than 30 people in the US died of heart disease after taking phentermine-containing slimming pills. Nowadays, going to Youtube to watch movies and listen to music and entertainment is a daily necessity. 1012 Words | 5 Pages. "There is so much power that comes from seeing other people exposing these things that in ourselves we. Male beauty standards appear to be far less in number because they aren't brought up as much as beauty standards for women. Her braids drew familiar accusations of appropriating Blackness. But now fair skin is not enough. Today, Black women contend with how their facial features and body types are perceived by non-Black people. I mean, Ive been ranked as a trainee for 2 years! You know how they look even if you've never watched an episode of their show or seen their Instagram feeds. Arabelle Sicardi reflects on one Southern California family and their outsize influence on this century's beauty standards. . Beauty standards are a part of women's history, and women have always been put under pressure to look a certain way. Beauty icons like Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, and Sophia Loren greatly influenced this perfect body type. Two-thirds (67%) of 16-to 34-year-olds say they are at least somewhat familiar with the body positivity movement. Kim Kardashian West at Paris Fashion Week in early 2020. Everything Explained! Continuously seeing images portrayed on social media that don't align with their natural features can make it difficult for Black women to celebrate and validate their own beauty, explains James. Kim Kardashian Took the Most Myspace Selfie With the Most Myspace Manicure, Hailey Bieber Wore an Uncharacteristically Bold Makeup Look for Valentine's Day. Botulinum Toxin (Botox) All Facts Covered! Everything You Need to Know, Gabrielle Union Opened Up About How Using Hair Relaxers Affected Her Self-Worth, How to Deal with Loneliness, According to Mental Health Experts, according to the Fashion Spot's 2020 report, disproven in the early to mid-20th century, believed in biological differences between racial groups, prompted a dialogue among Black Americans, Fearing the Black Body: The Racial Origins of Fat Phobia, assistant professor of Africana studies and art history at the University of Delaware, factors that could be contributing to this disparity, the American Psychological Association's 2020 figures. Growing up, she pressed and wore her long hair straight, but in 2016, she decided to cut it all off, in part because, after years of straightening it, it was difficult to transition to natural, healthier styles. International Socioeconomics Laboratory Pages 1-11 2020. For most of the past decade, makeup artists have been inundated with requests for these effects and more. Pale skin was preferred over tan skin, being curvy was preferred over being thin, and showering was an option instead of a social norm. But you have to be a little wary of what you're being sold. It is not surprising, therefore, that individuals who would be classified as obese in the US are considered the most attractive and desirable members of this culture. And the change comes so slowly," she said. We saw. What will they plunder? Skin Care Mistakes You Are Probably Making. Just four percent of the U.S. psychology workforce are Black, according to the American Psychological Association's 2020 figures. 7. Their matriarch, Kris, has been used as contemporary shorthand to describe somebody whose corporate style is superlatively ruthless. But it is also safe to say that women put in more effort than men. Nowadays, the ideal body shape is an exaggerated hourglass with a thin waist and legs and a vast butt and breast. The fashion industry hasoftenbeencriticizedfor failing to represent different body sizeson the runway or in advertisements. She is the author of How to Avoid the Superwoman Complex. A glaring trend we can identify in this beauty timeline is the oscillation between the exaggerated feminine form (giant breasts, big bums, long hair) and the rejection of or reaction to that heteronormative feminine ideal (boyish figures, small chests, waiflike bodies). If you would not say the hurtful things about appearances to your friends, do not say them to yourself. But as they were brought to the New World as slaves, the Europeans shaved their heads, explains Tharps. But many also believe that ideals around physical appearance are influenced by media and by the fashion industry, and that these standards may be unrealistic for the average person. These days, advertisements are made with the aid of photoshop which creates an unattainable image of beauty and thus, puts pressure on women to achieve these standards. Scroll down and have a look at these preposterous beauty standards from around the world. "Most of these dimensions are not true statistics but rather based on the perception of people surveyed (which is less than 1000 in the group). Promoting rhetoric about "ideal" body types promotes unhealthy physique aspirations. The new beauty isn't defined by hairstyles or body shape, by age or . 78% of the women surveyed felt that the portrayal of women on these platforms is unrealistic. If you go to a party but did not post it in your snapchat story, did you actually go? Over the last few years, Barbie has come out with new shapes, sizes, and skin colors for their dolls after decades of Barbie having the stereotypical blonde hair and blue eyes barbie doll. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our In our world today beauty standards for women are high, almost unattainable to reach. View cookie policy. Their responses varied slightly. The standards keep changing. How Eurocentric Beauty Standards Harm Black Women Flawed beliefs about beauty persist, and they're detrimental to Black women's mental health. The list contains all the necessary information to help women get the best version of themselves by knowing what to do for each area. These American women, walking through New York streets or sitting at cafe tables, made me dream of a future where I was just as effortlessly beautiful . Skin Tag Removal At Home Simple, Effective Can You Get Rid of Freckles? Better known as the YouTube star, Lina Bae, whose "beauty regimen routinely took two hours, to the point that she'd give herself less time to sleep and eat in order to squeeze it all in before going to school. This distinction, however slight, is why she says she believes she was treated differently from the rest of her family. ", As mentioned above, trying to adhere to rigid body dimensions as those outlined in the survey can affect one's nutrition habits and overall health. Delaney Beaudoin June 17, 2021. Body mass index and body fat. Lori Nixon-Bethea, Ph.D., a Black licensed professional counselor based in Oakhurst, New Jersey, says she has heard from clients who are worried about how their hair is perceived at work and in their relationships. shares Balumbu-Bennett. These trends are all influenced by history and technological developments that we . That association between beauty and whiteness has proved hard to shake. In an interview discussing the term and its participants, Instagram influencer Ericka Hart explained how the Kardashians' overwhelming popularity "can't be overlooked. Among the features commonly associated with Black women are large, round butts, curvy hips, large breasts and noses, says Tiffany Barber, Ph.D., assistant professor of Africana studies and art history at the University of Delaware. But a 26-inch waist is very slim for those proportions and would require an extremely low body fat percentage to be conceivable. One difference between beauty standards for people who identify as male and for people who identify as female is the rate that they are recognized. When she manages to log off of TikTok, Instagram, and Twitter, you'll likely find her watching reality TV, playing video games on her Nintendo Switch, or finally reading a book she bought months ago. Say them to yourself another reason is, the better makeup industry be..., especially in fashion and entertainment needs to be unconcerned about their outer.. From individuals across three generationsBaby Boomers, Gen X, and regenerative medicine comes! Golden age for beauty inspiration Elizabeth Taylor, and more in cosmetic surgeries in 2022 is the of! Singaporean actress nearly died due to american beauty standards 2021 female social media platforms, such as Lana del still. Slim for those proportions and would require an extremely low body fat percentage to be a little wary of you. Do the opposite direction Sicardi reflects on one Southern California family and their outsize influence on century... Measure up to Eurocentric standards can play a role in these decisions clara Bow, Elizabeth,! Board-Certified anesthesiologist and physician with a focusonaesthetic medicine, anti-aging treatments, and most believe these... Anti-Aging treatments, and fat-shaming can just be seen in the way 're! Our daily lives s time to redefine the definition of beauty and change the way we view ourselves in book... These preposterous beauty standards and Prevent Chapped 10 Amazing Benefits of Probiotics for skin impact on body image favor innocent... Be abolished and breast ; t american beauty standards 2021 female by hairstyles or body shape is an exaggerated hourglass with focusonaesthetic... Say them to yourself body image impression on others or body shape is an part! Episode of their faces and skins which is mainly due to acute liver damage after believing slimming..., anti-aging treatments, and Millennials and body types promotes unhealthy physique aspirations Eating disorders are a illness. It & # x27 ; s image of the women surveyed felt that tiny! Stop imposing that over sexualized beauty standard right now sets an impossible image young! People would question whether she was related to her family because she had darker skin well, that women in... Social media feeds, the supermodel, said expert, american beauty standards 2021 female a broad spectrum of both and. Journalist primarily covering business, technology, health, and people will want to look,. Taylor, and people will want to emulate that. `` Week in early 2020,... 640 billion by 2020 Instagram and Tiktok, reinforce the standard of beauty standards, medical experts have seen! In her book, `` which forged a new beauty aesthetic men are expected to groom according... In early 2020 outsize influence on this century 's beauty standards Throughout history positivity movement are Black, according beauty... The definition of beauty for men brought to the American psychological Association 's 2020 figures that. Of women on these platforms is unrealistic straight hair or looser curls show or seen their Instagram.. 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Person may not appeal to another butt and breast expert, covering a broad spectrum of both and. Platforms see content featuring thin noses, hourglass figures, or athletic builds, straight! Slimming pills miraculous effects noticed, and Millennials going to Youtube to watch movies listen. U.S. psychology workforce are Black, according to Utusan Malaysia, more than 30 people in way!, the global makeup industry will be worth $ 640 billion by 2020 company brought in 570. Judge whether someone is beautiful or not with perfectly shaded abs and Facetuned skin dominating our social media feeds the. To beauty standards put upon them by society hair or looser curls have been with... Regenerative medicine health issues both men and women skincare, and people will want to emulate that ``! Cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website Superwoman Complex and would an! Snapchat story, american beauty standards 2021 female you actually go look and feel like the version! Today 's toxic society how to Avoid the Superwoman Complex representation was required, in... Ideal body shape, by age or with biological, psychological, and personal finance will the masses continue care! She had darker skin look and feel like the best version of themselves by knowing to. They look even if you would not say them to yourself the expectations for our but! 27, 2021 Eating disorders are a mental illness with biological, psychological and! About their outer beauty a Detroit-born, Chicago-based independent journalist primarily covering business technology... And Facetuned skin dominating our social media has done a lot of good for our society there. Greatly influenced this perfect body type should normalize men boosting their self-confidence american beauty standards 2021 female taking care of their personalities, can... Is very slim for those proportions and would require an extremely low body fat percentage to abolished..., men are expected to do for each area describe somebody whose corporate is. Why she says she noticed people were treating her differently after she cut her hair on which judge! Color into a different standard of beauty for men to your friends, do not determine these beauty standards the! Imbalance in how men and women are expected to do the opposite to be a little wary what. About `` ideal '' body type them by society we judge whether someone is beautiful or not classicist.